Step-by-step instructions for fabricating and installing your PaperStone® project. Refer to the PaperStone® Care & Maintenance document for information on cleaning and caring for your new countertop.
Step 1
Tools needed for fabricating and installing (Photo 2A)
- Circular saw (with carbide-tipped blade)
- Router (with solid carbide-tipped bits)
- Jigsaw (with extra blades)
- Hole saw (size 1⅜")
- Cordless drill with an assortment of drill bits
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Caulk gun
- Hot glue gun with glue
- Adhesives (refer to PaperStone® Recommended Adhesives by Application for specific adhesive choices)
- Orbital sander with an assortment of sandpaper grits (80 to 240) and maroon non-woven pads, such as Scotch-Brite™ 7447
- Towels (blue paper shop towels work well and/or cloth)
- Masking tape
- Adhesive blocks (scrap PaperStone® blocks work well)
- Sawhorses, fabrication tables
- Straight edge and radius guides
- PaperStone® Finish or other finish of choice appropriate for wood surfaces (refer to PaperStone® Finish Guide)
Photo 2A
Step 2
Preparing the PaperStone® panel
- Look at both sides of the panel to determine if there is a preferred side for the top
- If seams will be necessary, determine where they will be
- Sometimes there is a natural “crown” in the material. This is not a problem. Make sure it faces UP and that the ends come in contact with the cabinet framing (Fig. I)
Step 5
Recheck all measurements for accuracy before cutting.
Before using any power tools, refer to the manufacturer’s safety recommendations. Always wear eye protection.
Step 6
- CUTTING TIP: masking tape on the saw base plate will help prevent scratching (Photo 2H)
- Make a rough-cut of the countertop with a circular saw (try to stay ⅛” outside of the traced line) (Photo 2I)
- A jig-saw can be used for tight spaces and curves, make sure cut stays perpendicular to the panel surface (Photo 2J)
- Make a clean-up cut precisely to the traced line with a router (utilize guides to ensure clean, straight cuts and smooth curves) (Photo 2K)
- For outside radius corners an orbital sander or router (with guide) works well (Photo 2L)
- For inside radius corners a router with radius guide is required to make a smooth, uniform radius cut
- Using a hole-saw, drill out the desired faucet holes
Photo 2H
Photo 2I
Photo 2J
Photo 2K
Photo 2L
Step 7
- Lay countertops on cabinet bases and check for proper fit and alignment
- Ensure all cutouts are in correct position, all overhangs are consistent and tops are resting level on cabinet bases (Photo 2M)
Photo 2M
Step 8
- Ensure that the desired edge finish is not extremely rough (if so, perform a preliminary sanding of the edge with 80 to 180 grit sandpaper depending on severity of roughness) (Photo 2N)
- Using a profile bit with a guide bearing, route the desired edge detail into the panel’s edge (if desired edge detail requires the removal of a considerable amount of material, utilize 'step-cuts' to maintain a better edge and prevent burning) (Photo 2N)
Photo 2N
Step 9
Biscuit seaming option A
- Dry-fit seam pieces
- Perform a 'mirror cut'
- Mark necessary biscuit locations
- Cut biscuit grooves
- Hot glue four 'hold-down' blocks about 8" from seam on both sides
- Apply two-part epoxy to biscuits and to both seam edges
- Using two bar clamps, gently tighten seam together
- After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface
- Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp
- Repeat previous step for remaining clamp
- With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer’s directions
Mechanical fastener seaming option B
- Dry-fit seam pieces upside-down
- Using a 'plunge' router, set the maximum depth to ½ of the overall thickness of the panel. Route "T" shaped grooves every four inches (Photo 2O)
- Repeat previous step on second seam piece so that pieces are mirror images
- Apply adhesive to both seam pieces
- Gently tighten seam pieces together with clamps (Photo 2P)
- Insert mechanical fasteners into their respective grooves (Photo 2Q)
- Ensure that the pieces are lined up correctly, then tighten fasteners
- After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface
- Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp
- Repeat previous step for remaining clamp
- With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer's directions
Photo 2O
Photo 2P
Photo 2Q
Step 10
Install undermount sink (self-rimming sinks will be installed after the top installation is complete)
- Turn countertops upside down
- Locate and mark center point of both the sink and the cutout
- Place sink upside down on the underside of the countertop and match up the two center marks, mark positions for pre-drilled mounting holes
- Remove sink
- Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific mounting screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through)
- Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the underside edge of the sink cutout
- Place sink back on the countertop and match up the two center marks
- Lightly insert screws into each pre-drilled mounting hole
- Turn countertop right side up
- Lightly tap the sink until it is in exact desired location (consistent reveal)
- Tighten all mounting screws
- Wipe away excess adhesive
Step 11
Scotch-Brite™ option A
- This option will maintain PaperStone's natural micro-textured surface (Photo 2R)
- Sand all exposed edges with a maroon non-woven pad to achieve an even surface treatment
Sanding option B
- This option will produce a smoother PaperStone® surface (Photo 2S)
- Sand all exposed edges with a 220/240 grit sandpaper
- NOTE: Depending on condition of top surface, sand with coarsest required grit to remove rub marks/scratches then work up to 220/240 grit sandpaper
- Finish with a maroon non-woven pad
Photo 2R
Photo 2S
Step 12
- Place countertops on cabinets
- Locate necessary anchor screw locations
- Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific anchor screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through) (Photo 2T)
- Pre-drill holes in cabinet frame/supports at specific anchor screw locations (use larger bit here)
- Working with one section at a time, lift the countertop off the cabinet base (Photo 2U) and apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to the cabinet base (Photo 2V). Carefully lower the countertop back onto cabinet base, repeat this step as necessary to apply adhesive to other areas of the cabinet base (if possible, remove the entire countertop and apply a bead of adhesive on the top edge of all cabinet bases for added strength)
- Insert mounting screws into each anchor location (correct screw diameter and length)
- Wipe away excess adhesive
Photo 2T
Photo 2U
Photo 2V
Step 13
- Pre-mount backsplashes (check to ensure there are no gaps between countertop and backsplash or wall and backsplash) (scribing of the wall side of the backsplash is possible, but it can be a challenge)
- Remove backsplashes
- Mark correct length and cut to size (45°/butt cut)
- Apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to underside and back of backsplash (hot glue if not using a fast- setting epoxy)
- Mount backsplash on top
- Clean any excess adhesive
- Allow adhesive to cure according to manufacturer’s instructions
Step 14
Finishing the countertops
- Clean all exposed surfaces with a soft wet cloth
- Allow time for surface to dry
- If backsplash is installed, use masking tape to assure clean, crisp caulk lines, then apply a bead of caulk to the seam where the backsplash meets the countertop, where the backsplash meets the wall and around the sink
- After caulk has been applied, remove masking tape guides
- When caulk is totally cured, apply wood finish of choice (i.e. Top Oil, Acri-Soy, PaperStone® Finish, etc. Refer to PaperStone® Finish Guide.)
- Buff aggressively with clean, dry cloths
- Prior to use, allow to dry for at least 8 hours or follow manufacturer's instructions
